The Astonishing Attitude of Action

Saturday, September 5th, 2009

Paddling out into huge waves used to be very scary for me as a child. I grew up on Maui, Hawaii and learned to surf on the north shore at a world famous surf spot called Hookipa. I can clearly remember the first time I paddled out to surf on my first surf board. A storm has just blown through the Island and the waves were huge. You could feel the rumble of these waves from the beach

When I think back to that day, I realize that I had less fear than I sometimes do today about doing risky things. Was I scared? Hell yes and for a good reason. I knew people who had drowned, gotten bitten by sharks and stung by portugese man-o-wars (Jellyfish).  Hookipa was no joke, but I was determined to learn to surf.

Anyways, as I paddled out, huge waves that were over 20 ft. high . My arms were burning, I was out of breath and my adrenaline was pumping. I knew I had to get out past the break if I was going to #1 catch one of these waves and #2 survive. If you drop into one of these waves and are not fully commited, there is no bailing out, its called wiping out and that is no fun.  You go over the falls on one of these babies and it will hold you under for sometimes 20 seconds.  You get tossed and turned, sometimes slamming into jagged coral and run the risk of your surfboard fin running into your body.  Your attached to it by a leash on your ankle.

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Tags: Aaron Rashkin, Action attitude, how to overcome fear, Josh Boxer, Mike Dillard, power of attraction
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